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| Relax....checked out |
というよりバタバタもがいてきたw
台風のうねりが沖から入ってきた後半戦は体力ないし、波強いしで、2回くらい死ぬかと思った、ひさびさにワイプアウト!
それでも3本くらいは乗れたのかな、この上ないくらい天気が良く、人々のvibeもよく、いつぶりかに心の底から楽しかった!
ストレスフリー、restraintフリー
こんな日々をたまに織り交ぜて生きていきたいものです
Much appreciation goes out to Mr. S, my surf mentor in Japan, for making this possible! All the respect for him and his buddies aka great surfers.
そんなんで湘南の風を乗せたまま夜は六本木ヒルズで会社のお別れ会。
わきあいあいながら、まだなーんとなく遠慮がある間合いでディナーが進む中、中盤で
私アナウンスがあるのだけど
やりたい仕事がありまーす
と宣言。社長に実務でトライしていく承諾をもらい、辞めちゃうSに「どうやって経験積んだ?」て聞いて、満足して疲れた体と眠い目を抱えてみんなより先に帰宅。即入眠。
忙しいけど充実した1日だった。
なんか、動き出してるわ、私の人生、あらゆるアスペクトから。
感覚でわかる。
ここから何がどうなっていくのか、痛みも伴うのかもしれないけれど、自分を幸せにするのは自分だけ、をモットーに、これからも自分で自分の人生を切り開いてきたいと思います!
よい週末を。
My friend and a surf mentor, Noboru picked me up to a local, local spot in Shonan to surf. His buddie also came along.
I was the only novice and everyone else in the spot were all experience surfers.
After all these years, I still struggle to paddle at the right timing to catch a mellow surf.
The vibe in the water was great and everyone was happy surfing.
Toward the end of the session, I was so worn out and a typhoon swell coming in from the east, I got wiped out a few times.
I thought I was going to drawn for a moment, but oh that feeling!
I used to get wipeout so often when I was surfing in California, a reminiscent feeling came back to me after all these years.
I pushed myself anyhow to the shore and took a nap while everyone else kept surfing without any break!
Oh I dream to be a surfer like them, who feels comfortable enough to get in the water alone, find friends there, surf with ease, be happy, come home.
First I need to buy a long board!
On the same day, I had a farewell dinner for someone leaving the company at end of this month. It was for me the first get together with my bosses and colleagues.
The atmosphere was anyhow still a bit stiff with many new comers (incl. me) but again the vibe was good.
I could feel everyone is on the same table in many ways.
I made a small announcement to one of my bosses that I want to pursue a career of moderator which he agreed to led me pursue on the job.
Oh what a week. Feels so good to see things are coming together finally.
I feel my life is changing and I am ready for changes.
I can only make myself happy, noone else.
Have a great weekend!




