いってまいりました、鵠沼海岸。
前回同様、セットで膝モモ程度のユルユル波。
９時半頃から海に入り、中一度だけ小休止を入れ、１２時近くまで入った。
沖からの波の見極め、波とパドルの間合い、パドルの強弱などを掴むのに小休止までの前半戦を使ってしまったが、おかげで後半戦はスムーズに何本も普通にパドルで波をキャッチして乗れた。残念ながら妊娠前になんとかこぎつけていたボトムターン（らしきもの）までは取り戻せなかった。次回の課題。
前回（去年１０月）と今回で大分感覚を取り戻し欲が出たのか、ひさびさに千葉海にいってもう少し大きい波に乗りたいと思い出した。
残念ながら７月から湘南は遊泳が始まり、サーフィンは規制（ブギボーはOK）で８−１７時は出来ないところが増える皺寄せで早朝８時まで、夕方１７時以降、規制時間内でも一部出来るエリアのある海（鵠沼や稲村）は異常な位混むので、次はおそらく９月までおあずけ。
次はひさびさに鎌倉の実家で眠る自分のボードに乗りたいなあ。。。
やっぱり意を決して、レンタカーして鵠沼自分でいくかな。。。
So I went, surfing, at Kugenuma Beach, Shonan.
My friend came to pick me up at 7:30ish and we got to the beach around 9:15am.
After a thorough warm up, we went in the water around 9:30am until I was in until noon-ish with a break in middle.
First half was all spent on catching up. After taking a rest in middle, I could see a wave, judge a ridable wave, paddle at the right speed and catch and ride it to the shore, just like I used to, except I could not pick up the bottom turn which I was starting to pick up few years ago before I went in a long break from surfing due to pregnancy. This will be my thing next time I go.
Surf was knee to thigh high at set (yes, at set!) but still ridable.
I was on a 7 foot spongey fan board my friend rent me and so I waited a little out (toward the shore) from the line up and caught all the small ones which all other surfers did not go for, sometimes regular ones if I were lucky with only few on a line up. Yet, towards I started to wanting more, bigger and fun waves to ride toward the end.
I asked my friend to take me to a Chiba beach next time, Chiba is directly facing Pacific Ocean so waves are usually rougher (but still way weaker than Hawai'i or California) and bigger, tide stronger.
My whole body sore, but it feels good. Stoke is in me now.
